Dandruff is a type of dermatitis that causes the overgrowth of a yeast found on the scalp that can lead to scalp flaking, inflammation, and hair loss. The key ingredient in this Nizoral shampoo is ketoconazole, an antifungal medication that reduces the overgrowth of that yeast. Studies have shown that ketoconazole can block the effects of an enzyme that converts testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a hormone that attacks the hair follicle. “It’s excess DHT that leads to androgentic alopecia (also called male- and female-pattern hair loss),” says Brooke Jeffy, MD, a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in hair loss and skin care. Connie Yang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, says Nizoral is an effective, easily accessible option for milder cases of dry, flaking scalps: “We often prescribe a prescription version of this in the office that contains 2% ketoconazole versus the 1% found over the counter.”
Tester review: Nizoral has been the only product that’s actually helped my flaky scalp. The dandruff shampoo has a cooling sensation when applied, and it smells a bit fresh and medicinal. It lathers really well, which is nice because I feel like my hair is actually getting cleaned. I’ve gone through three bottles of this product since I started using it last summer. I wash my hair with it once a week, and make sure to add scalp serum afterward to fight any stripping. — Jenifer Calle, GLAMOUR US Senior Shopping Editor
Your questions about shampoo for thinning hair, answered
Does shampoo for thinning hair work?
“The effectiveness [of a shampoo for thinning hair] varies depending on the reason for hair loss,” says Hardik Doshi, MD, FACS, double-board-certified lead surgeon at hair-restoration studio Ample. “They’re not a solution for hair loss, but they can assist in creating an optimal environment for the survival of existing hair follicles on the scalp.” In other words, if you’re losing hair because of pattern baldness or your hormones, a shampoo alone can’t restore your full head of hair. A multifaceted, holistic approach developed with a dermatologist or trichologist is needed, involving a personalised treatment that usually also includes medication, dietary changes, and stress reduction. “Shampoos are rarely an independent type of solution, yet, together with the treatment, they can help to struggle through the restoration process,” says Dr. Doshi.
What a shampoo can do is help maintain a healthy scalp environment that’s needed for hair growth and to prevent buildup and irritation that could get in the way of that growth, says trichologist Caspara. They can also add more volume and density, which make hair appear fuller.
What causes thinning hair?
“The most common cause is androgenetic alopecia, also called male- or female-pattern hair loss,” says Brooke Jeffy, MD, a board-certified dermatologist who specialises in hair loss and skin care. “This causes a widening of the part in women and a receding hairline or bald spot in men.” This kind of hair fall is a result of a hormone called dihydrotestosterone (DHT) attacking the hair follicle, says Friese. “When this happens, the follicle starts to minimise and grow thinner and thinner hair, until it closes and the hair stops growing out of that follicle.”
Other hair-loss causes include:
- Hormonal imbalances
- Autoimmune disorders
- Nutrition deficiencies
- Ongoing stress
- Pregnancy
- Dandruff
- Rapid weight loss
- Rough handling of hair (like very tight ponytails)
- Cosmetic treatments
- Shunts (a small patch that might be shaved on the head during a medical procedure)
- Menopause (this isn’t an “official” menopause symptom since it’s not related to estrogen loss, but it’s commonly reported at the beginning of menopause, and studies show that more than half of postmenopausal women over age 50 will have thinning hair).
How can I tell if my hair is thinning?
“Hair thinning is one of those things that can sneak up on you without you realising the warning signs,” says Dr. Doshi. “Normal daily shedding is no cause for alarm, but thick clumps of hair loss for sudden reasons, loss concentrated in one place, dryness, brittleness, or new cowlicks forming all indicate that something is going on.”
“Thinning hair is a slow, gradual process where individual hairs loose circumference,” says Mark Townsend, a celebrity hairstylist. This is not to be confused with hair breakage or loss, which is when strands fall out from the root. This thinning usually begins with the shrinking of hairs around the front hairline, the nape of the neck, or at the crown of the head. Women usually experience it as a widening of their parts.
“If your hair is feeling less dense (like your ponytail seems to have less girth), or you are seeing more scalp than hair, more hair in your brush, or more on the shower floor when you shampoo, then you may be experiencing some hair thinning,” says Friese.
What are the key ingredients in shampoos for thinning hair?
These ingredients crop up most commonly in shampoos for hair growth and thinning hair:
- Ketoconazole: A drug that can help lessen scalp irritation and encourage growth by reducing fungus caused by dandruff and acne.
- Minoxidil: A medication that can potentially reverse hair-follicle miniaturization by increasing blood circulation. It needs to be able to penetrate the scalp in order to be effective, however, which a shampoo can’t do alone as it’s rinsed off.
- Rogaine: A topical medication that has demonstrated efficacy in stimulating hair growth by bringing blood and nutrients to the scalp. It comes in a range of formulations and strengths, says Dr. Doshi.
- Biotin: A B vitamin that potentially “supports keratin production to increase hair volume and density, and strengthen the hair shaft,” says Michele Green, MD, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist.
- Niacin: An antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties that can strengthen hair follicles and promote overall scalp health.
- Saw palmetto: A natural plant extract that may potentially slow hair loss.
- Rosemary, caffeine, peppermint: Natural ingredients that stimulate blood flow to the scalp.
What should I consider when shopping for shampoo for thinning hair?
- Take into account the cause of your hair loss. If your loss is genetic, a shampoo will not be the one-stop solution, though it may be helpful if you have dandruff. This cause will be best determined by talking to a dermatologist or trichologist.
- Figure out your hair type and texture. “Fine, thin strands need ultra-lightweight formulas, while thick, coarse hair can withstand richer products,” says Dr. Doshi. If you have curly, coily hair, some shampoos for thinning hair may leave you feeling drier than normal, so look for ones with hydrating ingredients. You should avoid heavy ingredients, which may clog follicles.
- Avoid harsh sulphates and parabens. “Gentle cleansing agents are very important in a shampoo specifically for thinning hair, as the scalp needs to be protected with special care,” says Caspara. “Harsher cleansing agents such as sodium laureth/lauryl sulfate can strip the microbiome of healthy bacteria and irritate the scalp, ultimately hindering healthy hair growth. Stimulating ingredients that can increase blood circulation at the scalp can also benefit those who suffer from thinning hair. Thickeners that can instantly plump up the hair shaft and provide a gratifying feeling of thicker and fuller hair can help ease the stress of dealing with hair thinning.”
- Be patient. Using a shampoo alone may not yield the exact results you want if you’re experiencing serious thinning. For that, you’ll want to talk to a derm or trichologist to develop an overall routine that is suitable for you, possibly including medication and dietary changes. That said, if you don’t have intense thinning, after six to eight weeks, you watch for more volume and fullness in the appearance of your hair.
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This story originally appeared on GLAMOUR US.
